Walking Lybster to Helmsdale on the John O’Groats Trail

The Day

I Fell Into

a Bog!

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The Day I Fell Into a Bog

Just when I thought things couldn’t possibly get any worse on day three, I made a huge error.

One that could have ended very seriously.

I fell into a bog!

Continue reading to find out how I made it from Lybster to Helmsdale, walking my longest day so far on my walk from John O’Groats to Land’s End.

Leaving North Bank House, Lybster With a Haunted Story

I left North Bank House feeling very blessed and grateful that I got to stay in such a beautiful house on day two, a house that felt like it was straight out of Bridgerton.

When I handed over the keys to the owner, he asked me, “How was your night?”

“Really good, thank you,” I responded.

He then proceeded to tell me, “Oh good, because we’ve had haunted sightings before. The wardrobe in particular.”

Immediately, I felt chills run down my back, as I had had an encounter with the wardrobe. When I was getting ready for bed, the door had just opened by itself.

My great Nanna had a similar wardrobe, and I’d put it down to a poor latch at the time because I didn’t want to freak myself out while staying alone in this house.

I’m just glad he told me in the morning and not the night I arrived!

So, in regular fashion, I was leaving to start my walk a bit on edge.

If you’re planning a visit to Lybster and need somewhere to stay, you can explore the interactive map below to find accommodation options in the area, including North Bank House.

The View Over Lybster Harbour

Shaking off the fact that I had probably just stayed in a haunted house, I started the climb out of Lybster.

Once you’re about 0.9km in, you get an excellent viewpoint over Lybster Harbour and the lighthouse, a sight that filled me with optimism in that moment.

But I should have known it wasn’t going to be a day full of optimism.

When the Trail Turned Into a Swamp

About an hour and a half into the trail, I was already starting to feel a little defeated. I just couldn’t seem to change my mindset.

The ground was soaked, my boots were drenched, and my waterproof trousers were losing the battle against weeds and grass that were waist high.

I was being slowed down badly. I didn’t know how I was going to make the time up if the whole trail was going to be like this.

Still carrying the disappointment of not being able to complete the last six miles into Lybster the previous day, I really didn’t want this to turn into another day where I felt beaten.

I kept telling myself to stop getting so frustrated, because look where I was. I was surrounded by beautiful views, nothing but green and the North Sea.

The Bog That Nearly Ended My Walk

At around 7.45km into the day, I decided to change my plan.

The grass was soaking me through, my boots were already wet, and progress felt painfully slow. I convinced myself that some road walking might be faster and, honestly, a little kinder.

That decision turned out to be a huge mistake.

As I walked down a grassy path next to a farm, I was greeted by a herd of sheep. I remember vividly saying to them, “Don’t worry sheep, I’ll walk around you.”

The next thing I knew, I was waist-deep in a bog.

I don’t remember feeling the bottom at all, which was absolutely terrifying.

I started paddling, using my walking sticks like ice picks to claw my way out.

The whole scene felt like a combination of The Vicar of Dibley falling into the puddle and The NeverEnding Story.

Once I finally crawled out of the bog and got myself away from it, I watched the sheep calmly disappear, briefly wondering if that had been their plan all along.

I sat there in shock, my bare feet getting cold as I took off my wet, muddy socks and stared at my boots, completely soaked through.

Trying to keep it together, I couldn’t help but stare at the grass and think:

“What do I do now?”

Walking the A9

After sitting for what felt like an eternity, having an internal panic over the bog incident, I tried to collect myself.

I checked in with the hotel to see if there was any way to get there in this mess but I had just missed the one bus running that day.

With my boots soaked through, socks wet, and legs trembling, I started walking along the A9.

I do not recommend this at all, as people really do drive like lunatics on that road.

Unfortunately, I missed the sights of Latheronwheel and Dunbeath Harbour. However, I did get to experience the winding Barriedale Road…on foot.

After a long, very wet slog. A long, very wet 22.82 miles in total, I finally arrived on the edge of Helmsdale and checked into the Navidale House Hotel.

I use the Hiiker app to track all my distances, pace, and routes on the John O’Groats to Lands End walk. If you want to try it, use my code LEAH50 for a discount!

Staying at Navidale House Hotel

I was incredibly embarrassed walking into the Navidale House Hotel with all my clothes soaked to the bone petrified I was leaving muddy marks along the carpet!

Navidale House Hotel is a charming 4-star bed and breakfast with a bar with an open fire, a place I stayed before entering my room as I was in need of some serious hydration.

Positioned on the Helmsdale coastline in the Scottish Highlands, this independently owned 10-bedroom hotel offers panoramic views of the North Sea, making it an ideal base for walkers and explorers alike.

Originally built in the 1800s as a hunting lodge for the Duke of Sutherland, Navidale House now welcomes guests as a comfortable, family-friendly, and dog-friendly retreat.

Once I had got my feet warm and felt like I actually had liquid in my body again, I went to my room for a long soak in the bath feeling absolutely spoilt that I had two different views of the sea!

Looking for a Place to Stay in Helmsdale?

If you’re planning your own John O’Groats Trail adventure or just visiting the beautiful Helmsdale coastline, there are some fantastic places to stay nearby.

From cosy B&Bs to hotels with sea views, there’s something to suit every traveller.

Check out the interactive map below to see available accommodation options in Helmsdale and book your perfect stop for the night.

At Least It Isn’t a Bog

I learned a huge lesson that day, and that was not to take anything for granted, because things can really turn very quickly.

It could have taken a completely different turn if I hadn’t been able to crawl out of that bog.

To this day, I say it was the best thing to happen to me so early on in the journey. Why? Because it built my resilience.

Another storm? Well, at least it isn’t a bog.
Hurt your foot? Well, at least you aren’t crawling out of a bog.

I even took this lesson with me after the big walk and use it in life. When things are getting too tough for me to handle, I remind myself:

at least it isn’t a bog.

I also learned something else that day. I am tougher than I thought. Survival mode kicked in and I was able to walk nearly 23 miles in soaking wet boots.

What would I do differently if I approached this again?

Stop trying to walk too many miles. You are not a robot. You are a human, and eventually, you will need a break.

Summary: Lybster to Helmsdale – Day Three on the John O’Groats Trail

Distance walked: 36.73 km (22.82 miles)
Time: 10 hours 25 minutes
Trail: John O’Groats Trail
Difficulty: High (Depending on the weather) bogs, waist-high grass, wet ground, A-road walking (if you decide to come off the trail), and cliff edges
Key highlights: Lybster Harbour viewpoint, Barriedale Road, the unexpected bog, Helmsdale coastline, Navidale House Hotel
Recommendation: This is a long, challenging day, consider splitting it or preparing for an early start

If you’re planning this stretch of the John O’Groats Trail, make sure to check the local accommodations and map out your route in advance to stay safe and enjoy the incredible scenery.

Nothing but green and the North Sea.

Watch Day Three of Walking John O’Groats to Lands End on YouTube

If you’d like to see this day unfold in real time and see my reaction or shock of falling into a bog, watch the full video here:

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