Walking Wick to Whaligoe on the John O’Groats Trail

Knowing When

To Stop

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Walking Wick to Whaligoe on the John O’Groats Trail

Day Two of walking from John O’Groats to Land’s End on the John O’Groats Trail started with good intentions, some sore legs, and a very important realisation: my backpack was far too heavy.

After the events of Day One, I knew something had to change if I was going to make it all the way.

Fixing My First Big Mistake: Shedding Weight in Wick

After an incredible deep sleep at the Noss Head Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage I had to run an errand.

Before even properly starting the day’s walk, I headed into Wick Post Office to fix a mistake I’d made on Day One: carrying far too much kit.

With a heavy heart, I sent home:

• My DSLR camera (knowing I’d lose those high-quality shots)
• A tripod
• And various other “just in case” items

In total, I lost about 3kg from my pack. I had to give my knees a fighting chance!

Feeling like such a novice, an imposter for this long journey, I admitted that I overpacked and carried on walking.

Looking for Somewhere to Stay in Wick?

If you’re planning to walk this section of the John O’Groats Trail, Wick makes a really practical overnight stop.

Whether you’re after a cosy B&B, a hotel, or somewhere simple to rest your legs, you’ll find plenty of options in and around the town.

I’ve embedded a live accommodation map below so you can easily see what’s available for your dates and budget:

The Shortest Street in the World

Leaving Wick, I joined the John O’Groats Trail again and even passed the shortest street in the world.

Tucked away in the town is Ebenezer Place, officially recognised by Guinness World Records as the world’s shortest street.

It measures just 2.06 metres (6 ft 9 in) and has only one address: No. 1 Bistro at Mackays Hotel.

From here, I headed out past Wick Harbour, the coastline slowly opening up ahead.

Day Two already had me reflecting on what I was grateful for from Day One:

The breakfast at John O’Groats Guest House. I quickly learned that a full English or Scottish breakfast is elite-level fuel for long-distance walking.

My walking sticks. Absolute game changers.

Ben and Steve at Noss Head Lighthouse. Their hospitality and kindness (and being fed) had meant more than they probably realised.

I also learned something new about myself: I hate stiles.

The Trinkie and the First Miles

Around 2.5km (1.55 miles) after leaving Wick, the trail passes the Trinkie Outdoor Swimming Pool.

The Trinkie is a tidal seawater pool, carved from a former quarry and filled by the North Sea itself.

It was formally opened in the 1920s and has served generations of swimmers, sunbathers, and sea lovers ever since.

Today, it’s looked after by the Trinkie Heritage Preservation Group, who clean and paint it each year to preserve it for future visitors.

Castle of Old Wick

After about 3.5km (2.17 miles) from Wick, the coastline takes a dramatic turn.

Perched on a narrow sea cliff just south of the town sits the Castle of Old Wick, one of Scotland’s oldest castles.

Its most prominent feature is the tall, square tower, nicknamed the “Old Man of Wick”, which still stands four storeys high, even though much of the rest of the structure has collapsed.

Whaligoe Steps: Testing The Knees!

Whaligoe Steps are a steep, historic set of stone steps that zigzag down the cliffs to what used to be a fishing harbour.

Apparently it is 365 steps, one for every day of the year!

I would have counted but I was thinking about my poor knees doing this 250 foot descent.

They are incredible.

They are brutal.

To be honest, they are probably not that brutal if you aren’t carrying a heavy backpack that you have been lugging around all day.

By the time I walked down and then walked back up to the car park, my legs were already feeling the miles.

I was just getting myself geared up to finish walking the last 6 miles.

And that’s when the sky turned…weird!

When the Sky Went Black

Up until then, the weather had been rainy.

But this was different.

The sky turned almost black. In the middle of the afternoon.

It genuinely felt apocalyptic. The light vanished. The wind picked up. The rain came in sideways.

I stood in the Whaligoe Steps car park messaging my family group chat, explaining what was happening.

Every single reply said the same thing:

“It’s not worth carrying on. Be safe.”

I still had six miles left on the trail. Normally, I’d have pushed on.

But all I could think about were the cliff edges, the exposure, and the fact that this weather felt…unhinged.

I stood there getting absolutely drenched, watching cars leave the car park, secretly wishing someone would ask if I was okay.

I felt too nervous stepping out in front of a car yelling, “HELP!” as I knew I’d probably just looked like a crazy drowned rat person.

Someone in the group chat ordered me a taxi so I could make my escape from what felt like the end of the World.

And then something very special happened.

Meeting a Local Legend: Davy Nicolson

While I was waiting, the most Scottish man you can imagine with a handlebar moustache appeared.

He told me to come inside and get out of the rain.

That man was Davy Nicolson.

Davy is a local legend.

He looks after the historic Whaligoe Steps and maintains them.

His grandfather was one of the last fishermen to use them when it was still an active harbour.

He told me stories and spoke with such pride about the place.

He seemed particularly proud to mention how Billy Connolly once filmed here.

I regret, to this day, not getting a photo with him but at the time I was feeling all kinds of emotions my head wasn’t on straight.

He kept me dry and kept me calm.

Looking back he really is a reminder that the journey should be about the people and places, not just miles.

Relenting (Again) With a Very Expensive Taxi

The taxi arrived and took me to North Bank House in Lybster.

A six-mile journey.

Nearly £30!

Back home it wouldn’t even cost a tenner.

To make it worse, I didn’t have enough cash and the driver was, well, not impressed.

So for Day One and Day Two, I had done the thing I really didn’t want to do: I’d had to accept transport.

I was reminded to give myself grace, it would be later when people would remind me that this was my journey and I could approach it however I wanted.

I wasn’t here to win Day Two. I was here to finish the whole walk safely.

That storm still lives in my head.

I’m genuinely convinced something unnatural happened that afternoon…or maybe that’s just a normal day in Scotland?

Arriving at North Bank House

Donald met me at the door of North Bank House, and the contrast was unreal.

It felt like walking straight into something out of Bridgerton.

After a day of fear, rain, and adrenaline, this place felt like stepping into another world.

About North Bank House, Lybster

Built in 1883, originally a bank for nearly 100 years, it later became a Free Church Manse and is now a beautifully renovated Scottish listed building.

It’s in the seaside village of Lybster, right on the North Coast 500, with:

A mini supermarket nearby
A bar/restaurant a few minutes walk away
Easy access to Wick, Thurso and John O’Groats

An absolutely perfect base for large families or groups exploring Caithness and Sutherland…and a perfect place to hide from the end of the world.

Day Two Reflection: Knowing When to Stop Is Part of the Journey

I wanted to walk every step.

But the truth is, long-distance walking is also about judgment.

Safety. Longevity. Making sure you can still walk tomorrow.

Day Two taught me that stubbornness doesn’t get you to Land’s End.

Smart decisions do. But it’s okay to be annoyed by them too.

Route Summary: Wick to Whaligoe (John O’Groats Trail)

Distance walked: 10.93 miles
Planned distance: 17 miles
Trail: John O’Groats Trail
Terrain: Steep clifftop paths, steps, exposed sections, rugged coastal walk
Difficulty: Challenging in bad weather
Key highlights: Whaligoe Steps, Coastal cliffs, Castle of Old Wick
Recommendation: Do not underestimate this section in poor weather

Watch Day Two on YouTube

If you’d like to see this day unfold in real time, including the view of Castle of Old Wick and what to expect on this stretch of the trail, you can watch the full video here:

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