Is the Helmsdale to Brora Walk on the John O’Groats Trail Challenging?

Is the Helmsdale to Brora Walk on the John O’Groats Trail Challenging?

Helmsdale to Brora on the John O’Groats Trail was deceiving. What started off as an easy day soon became a challenge.

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Helmsdale to Brora on the John O’Groats Trail

After the disaster of falling into a bog the previous day, I felt like this should have been an easier day, but it just gave me more problems!

This is my story of walking 13.89 miles from Helmsdale to Brora on the John O’Groats Trail.

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Leaving Helmsdale & Regaining Confidence

Leaving Navidale House Hotel in Helmsdale really set me off on a positive.

The hotel sits on an incredible part of the coastline which I could look at all day but as always, I needed to start the walk so I wouldn’t arrive at my next destination late.

If you are looking for accommodation in Helmsdale I have provided an interactive map below.

I walked along the A9 for 4.5km (2.8 miles), mainly to get my confidence back up after bog-gate!

When you arrive at the Portgower crossing, you can walk over the railway lines and start back on the John O’Groats Trail.

Beach Walking & Burn Crossings

After around 9km (5.6 miles) from Helmsdale, you reach a beach section, which then brings you to your first burn crossing.

When I arrived, there was a tree stump placed amongst the stones, making it an easy crossing.

There is something about jumping across a burn using a tree stump that feels child-like or magical.

You really start to feel how remote this section is, as I didn’t see a single person walking the trail.

So I found myself really soaking in the wildlife, mainly the birds. This section of the trail is perfect for any birdwatchers.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t name any myself, but in the distance they looked like tiny pterodactyls sitting on the rocks out in the sea.

Caravan Park Kindness at Crakaig Loth Campsite

At 10.61km (6.6 miles) into the walk, it almost feels like you shouldn’t be walking into Crakaig Loth Campsite, but it is part of the John O’Groats Trail.

By this point, I was ready to take a break, so I found a small clearing where I wasn’t too close to someone’s caravan and sat down to have a snack.

Next thing I knew, I could hear someone shouting. They were calling someone.

Me.

I was being invited in to have some tea. Well yes please.

I welcomed some human connection after such a lonely stretch of trail, having seen no one all day.

I sat down with Julie, chatted about my journey so far, and enjoyed some temporary companionship from her dog, Brody.

It was exactly what I needed, especially as I was missing my own dog, Hershel, so much, even though it hadn’t even been a week without him yet.

The Loneliest Stretch to Brora

Today felt different to all the other days, because usually I would see at least someone on the trail.

Yes, all stretches on the John O’Groats Trail are remote, but there’s normally at least one person walking the other way.

This day, I was completely alone.

My mind started playing tricks on me.

The wind sounded like a woman wailing in the distance as it echoed along the shoreline.

And as someone who has a deep fear of The Woman in Black, at first the sound amused me, but it soon turned into a distressing atmosphere.

I quickly walked on, hoping I wasn’t about to see a female figure standing on the coastline, dressed all in black.

Crossing Loth Burn (Before the New Bridge)

I reached Loth Burn around 12km (7.5 miles) into the walk, and this one was a little trickier than the burn before. This time, I needed more than just a tree stump.

I had to walk further inland before hopping across the larger stones, and this definitely wasn’t done so gracefully.

Since then, walkers will be pleased to hear that there has been a £90,000 investment on this section of the John O’Groats Trail.

A new 22-metre footbridge has now been installed, so you can cross the burn with grace and dignity.

The Ankle-Breaking Section to Brora

Unfortunately, the terrain starts to get trickier as you get closer to Brora.

The overgrown trail forced me down onto the beach, and after a 4km (2.5 mile) slog, I found myself shouting into the void:

“Somebody get me off this beach!”

But be careful what you wish for.

The terrain suddenly changes to stones, pebbles, railway sleepers, and you need to perfect the art of walking like a trapeze artist so you don’t sway into the barbed wire fence protecting the railway line.

This section certainly slowed me down physically, but probably mentally too, because just before I reached Brora Golf Club, I felt my ankle go POP!

First Sightings of Highland Cows

Now this is where I felt quite silly. I had my first ever sighting of Highland cows.

At first, I was going to carry on walking to get a closer look at these majestic creatures, but then it suddenly dawned on me that I had absolutely no idea what their temperament was like.

I took one look at their long horns and decided it was probably best to make my way down to the beach and continue towards the golf course instead.

Now this was the part I was unsure about. The map was telling me to walk straight through the golf course.

Is that even safe?

I noticed a couple of other people had clearly done the same to reach the beach, so I swiftly walked across, hoping I wouldn’t take a golf ball to the head while doing a strained limp and letting out a slight groan with every bit of pressure on my ankle.

From there, I walked through Brora Caravan and Motorhome Club Campsite (Dalchalm Caravan Club Site) before finally making my way onto the main road, the A9, for the last mile into Brora.

Food in Brora & Andy’s Kindness

The pain in my ankle was really starting to set in now, but I was doing my best to ignore it and convince myself it wasn’t that bad…really.

At the same time, my food cravings were kicking in after what had turned into a much longer day than expected.

I knew exactly what I wanted after walking 13.98 miles.

So, I headed into Brora town centre, which was actually the opposite direction to my accommodation, and made a beeline for the Chinese Dragon.

While waiting for my food, it was starting to dawn on me…my ankle was clearly not okay, and I still had a 30-minute walk ahead of me to reach my B&B.

That’s when I looked up and noticed a gentleman watching me, probably seeing the same struggle written all over my face.

He asked if I was okay and whether I was going to manage getting to where I needed to be.

Still trying to convince myself more than anyone else, I smiled and said I’d be fine, even though deep down I knew I probably wasn’t.

His name was Andy, and he very kindly offered me a lift.

Now I do want to say that I don’t generally recommend accepting lifts from strangers when walking solo. I’m just far too friendly and trusting for my own good, which will probably get me into trouble one day.

But if there’s one thing this walk taught me, it’s that people are kind and genuinely want to help.

Looking at my ankle, and knowing I had achieved what I set out to do by making it into Brora, I accepted the lift to Clynelish Farm B&B.

Andy even helped carry my things to the door. I’m incredibly grateful for his kindness and for going out of his way, especially knowing his own dinner was probably getting cold by the time he got home.

Staying in Brora

If you’re planning your own walk or visiting this beautiful stretch of the Scottish Highlands, Brora makes a great place to stop for the night.

I’ve added an interactive map below so you can easily find accommodation in Brora, whether you’re looking for a cosy B&B, hotel, or self-catering stay that suits your journey.

Lessons from walking Helmsdale to Brora

This day taught me far more than I expected, the first lesson being don’t underestimate your day, as what can be seen as easy can be more challenging than you thought.

The knock-on effect of exhaustion will creep up on you in a flash. I don’t think it is a coincidence that my ankle happened to pop after a day of falling into a bog and walking 23 miles.

Different terrain can be exhausting and just as challenging as hiking the big climbs.

Beach walking, for me, is tougher than it looks, definitely makes my calves very angry.

Walking sticks are an absolute essential. Every day. Every hour. Every minute!

Kindness from strangers can completely change the day around.

After the bog incident the day before, my body was already struggling, and this walk really highlighted how important pacing and rest are on long-distance trails.

Helmsdale to Brora on the John O’Groats Trail

Distance: 13.89 miles (22.36 km)
Time: 8 hours
Difficulty: Medium to High

Terrain: This stretch throws a bit of everything at you, from quiet road sections and long beach walks to rocky shoreline, narrow paths running alongside the railway, and heavily overgrown trail. Expect uneven ground with stones, pebbles, and old sleepers that demand careful footing.

Hazards: Burn crossings (however less hazard thanks to the new bridge), barbed wire fencing near the railway, long vegetation where ticks may be present, and tricky footing that can easily cause ankle injuries.

Conditions: Although the mileage doesn’t seem extreme, the changing landscape and weather can make this day feel far tougher than expected. Overgrown paths and rough sections slow progress and require extra concentration.

Highlights: Secluded coastline, wildlife, Highland cows, peaceful solitude, and the incredible kindness of strangers.

Watch the Full Day on YouTube

If you’d like to see this stretch of the John O’Groats Trail unfold in real time, including the coastal walking, burn crossings, rough terrain, and my arrival into Brora, you can watch the full day’s adventure on my YouTube channel below.

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