The Birdwatcher’s Cabin on the John O’Groats Trail

CABIN IN
THE WOODS

On day five of walking from John O’Groats to Lands End I walked 9.35 miles from Brora to Golspie.

With a very swollen ankle, a visit to Dunrobin Castle and Gardens and ending the day at The Birdwatcher’s Cabin.

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A Much-Needed Rest at Clynelish B&B

Day four of the walk from John O’Groats to Lands End saw me walk from Helmsdale to Brora.

My accommodation for the night was at Clynelish B&B.

I was able to have a hot bath, and the host was kind enough to get me some ice to put on my ankle.

That POP sound I heard and felt? Well, it wasn’t looking good!

The day had clearly wiped me out as I was planning for the next day and kept falling asleep, only to be woken up again by my phone smashing me in the face.

When I set off for day five, I put on an ankle support and all the deep freeze I could rub on one ankle, then headed towards Brora centre.

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Leaving Brora & Joining the John O’Groats Trail Again

I left Brora and continued along the A9.

I’ve added an interactive map below so you can easily find accommodation in Brora, whether you’re looking for a cosy B&B, hotel, or self-catering stay that suits your journey.

At 4.5km (2.80 miles) into the walk it is where I turned left to cross the railway line and get back onto the John O’Groats Trail.

Finding My Rhythm with The Beatles

Now that I was back on the trail, I felt like I was getting my stride on.

All thanks to the Beatles as I listened to HEY JUDE.

I have listened to that song many times before, and never did it hit me as hard as it did on this walk!

Though the song was intended for John Lennon’s son to help him navigate through his parents’ divorce, in that moment I felt like they were singing for me.

I was really connecting with the “making a difficult situation better” part, since the whole journey had gone off to a rocky start, i.e. apocalyptic weather, falling into a bog, and now a swollen ankle!

Getting Lost in the Ferns

It was all going so well until I slowed myself down by walking into human-height ferns at the 5.4km mark (3.36 miles).

As it had been well trodden, I assumed this was the way, but as I was getting whipped by plants and stung by nettles, I had a sneaky suspicion this couldn’t be right.

And just like the many people before me that had made this mistake, I turned round, got double stung, and got myself back onto the right path.

This is something I would find myself doing often on the whole journey of walking John O’Groats to Lands End.

It is all about shaking these things off and getting back onto the right path.

Carn Liath Broch

At 7.75km (4.82 miles), I visited Carn Liath Broch.

A broch from the Iron Age which, even in its ruined state, shows the impressive design and architectural skill of the farmers who once lived there.

Entering Dunrobin Castle and Gardens

2km (1.24 miles) after Carn Liath, the turn off right to Dunrobin Castle takes you through the woods and round to the entrance of the castle.

If you want to learn more about Dunrobin Castle, you can read my blog here about my visit.

The Final Stretch into Golspie

It is a 2km (1.24 miles) walk into Golspie after visiting Dunrobin Castle.

As you get closer to Golspie you can see the Duke of Sutherland Monument, locally known as “The Mannie” on Ben Bhraggie in the distance.

I was recommended ice cream at Capaldis by a gentleman walking along the trail, so of course I had to take him up on that. Then I grabbed a chippy from The Trawler.

As the host of my accommodation, Lizzie, was running errands in Golspie, upon learning of my ankle, I was ushered into the car rather than doing the last two miles to The Birdwatcher’s Cabin.

The Birdwatcher’s Cabin, Golspie

The Birdwatcher’s Cabin remains one of my favourite stays from the entire walking journey.

Now, this was a gifted stay, but I want to highlight that the views I have of this unique place remain mine with no influence.

If you were to look up the definition of an off-grid cabin, The Birdwatcher’s Cabin would be there. It is nestled on the edge of Balblair Woods in the Loch Fleet National Nature Reserve.

This is one of the most idyllic spots I have experienced in the UK. It made me want to revisit for a summer and write a novel!

The winning factor of this accommodation is definitely the view, where you can get direct beachfront access with wide views of both the sea and forest.

You can enjoy these views from the terrace, the living space, and even from the comfort of the double bed.

It is such a wonderfully crafted cabin.

The tranquillity oozes throughout.

I even felt like it was giving healing powers to my, at this point, incredibly swollen ankle.

The water pressure was fantastic and a lovely temperature, which came as a surprise with it being an off-grid cabin.

I was also able to stay cosy and warm using the wood-fired stove.

I especially enjoyed boiling the kettle on the stove, reminding myself of an earlier time and that we don’t have to do everything at such a fast pace.

The Birdwatcher’s Cabin forces you to relax and unwind which I think is an incredibly special trait to have in this current fast-paced World!

If you would like to stay at The Birdwatcher’s Cabin you can use the interactive map below to see exactly of its location and click this link to book.

Useful Information for The Birdwatcher’s Cabin

Free off-site private parking
Pet friendly
Outdoor seating area
Picnic Spot
Barbecue facilities
Washing Machine
Free WiFi

Brora to Golspie Walk Summary (John O’Groats Trail)

Distance: 9.35 miles
Time: 7 hours 18 minutes (including the visit to Dunrobin Castle)
Difficulty: Easy

Terrain: Road walking if joining the trail later, with sections of overgrown grass and beautiful coastal stretches along the shoreline.

Highlights: Exploring Carn Liath Broch, wandering through Dunrobin Castle and gardens, peaceful shoreline views, and ending the day at the stunning Birdwatcher’s Cabin.

Watch the Full Day on Youtube

If you would like to watch the full day on Youtube beginning in Brora, visiting Dunrobin Castle and ending the day in Golspie at The Birdwatcher’s Cabin click the video below.

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