Cuillich Mill Bed and Breakfast in the Scottish Highlands

STAYING IN
THE SCOTTISH
HIGHLANDS

During my walk from John O’Groats to Land’s End, I stayed at Cuillich Mill Bed and Breakfast, a peaceful stay nestled in the Scottish Highlands after walking a couple of days on a swollen ankle.

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Injury Forced a Reset on the John O’Groats Trail

I woke up at The Birdwatcher’s Cabin feeling incredibly stiff and quickly realised I couldn’t properly walk on my ankle.

Boban and Lizzie, the wonderful hosts of The Birdwatcher’s Cabin, were really concerned about how swollen it had become.

Boban kept reminding me that there was no point trying to push through, make it worse, and risk not completing the whole journey.

I understood exactly what he meant however I was also being incredibly stubborn.

I was determined to walk as much of this journey as possible. After all the apocalyptic weather, falling into a bog, and now damaging my ankle, I was already feeling frustrated about the setbacks so far.

Boban gently reminded me that things happen but if I don’t take care of myself, I will not complete the whole journey.

I had roughly another 85 days to go!

My friends and family also highlighted for me that on each of those days I’d already walked more miles than most people in the UK had, trying to help me feel a sense of achievement, not failure.

In 5 days I had walked a total of 76.29 miles with a heavy backpack, which I think is something to be proud of.

Reluctantly, I agreed to be dropped closer to my next destination.

Originally, I should have walked through Loch Fleet National Nature Reserve, along Embo Beach where I possibly missed out on spotting seals, across Cuthill Sands where I missed out on birdlife, and a peaceful walk through Tarlogie Woods.

Instead, I was dropped off at Tain, losing 30.73km (19.1 miles) of walking.

I genuinely went through a whole grieving process over missing that stretch. But I also knew I had to take care of myself.

Walking from Tain to the Edge of Alness

The next stumble was that I already had accommodation booked further on and didn’t want to throw off my route for the following days.

So I walked from Tain to just outside Alness, a distance of 19.08km (11.9 miles).

I started off limping badly.

But something changed when I reached Easter Lamington Wood, about 4km (2.49 miles) into the walk.

It felt like a scene from The Usual Suspects. One minute I was limping and the next I was suddenly walking like me again!

The stiffness and pain eased.

Walking through the forest completely revitalised me.

The woods stretch for around 7.5km (4.66 miles) and gave me the mental reset I most certainly needed.

A Rest Day I Desperately Needed!

The next morning, I tried to give myself permission to slow down and take care of my ankle!

With a few miles walking set for the day, I was in no rush so reflected on the journey so far that morning.

I was struggling mainly because of the constant bad weather.

The wind and rain meant it was incredibly soggy for camping, something I just couldn’t bring myself to do in this weather.

The frustration I was carrying because of the missed planned miles and my injured ankle wasn’t helping my recovery.

I was being too hard on myself.

I’d started doubting that I could do this. Feeling like an imposter on the trail.

The Walk into Alness & a Boost from a Stranger

On day seven, I walked into Alness for ankle supplies and painkillers then headed to Cuillich B&B.

It took about two and a half hours, with the last part being a steady uphill climb.

Halfway up, a man on a bike rode past and shouted:

“How far are you going?”

“John O’Groats to Land’s End!” I called back.

“Well, you’ve not got far then! Keep going!”

I needed that chuckle. It is moments like this that keep you going.

Energy from complete strangers like this gave me life again on the hard days.

I may have been doubting myself, but those little interactions kept me moving.

Cuillich Mill Bed and Breakfast in the Highlands

As you walk up the road, you can see Cuillich B&B nestled amongst the green in the distance, with the cute green porch making this B&B look like it should be in a rom-com movie.

When I got to the door it wasn’t Jude Law that greeted me. But that’s okay…

Leila and David gave me such a friendly welcome, but I may have been somewhat rude as I was too excited to greet their two dogs, Flo and Archie!

I was missing my own dog, Hershel Puggins like crazy at this point.

David is a part-time tour guide, so he’s able to give you any advice you may need on your visit in the Highlands.

I spent my afternoon relaxing in the conservatory, which has beautiful views no matter which window you’re staring out of.

For a small fee, you can have your clothes washed and dried, an absolute comfort I was grateful for even at this stage of the walk.

The B&B is clean and incredibly inviting. It instantly feels homely.

I especially loved the en suite bathroom for its tranquil effect, with a large selection of complimentary products to choose from.

Already on day 7 of the walk I was seeing the luxury in taking a bath and soaking those tired muscles!

In the morning, I was welcomed with an incredible English breakfast with fruit and yoghurt, that really set me up for the day as I was to walk up to Fyrish Monument.

One of the reasons I chose this place was due to the easy access for walking to Fyrish Monument.

The famous BBC reality TV series The Traitors was filmed only minutes away at Ardross Castle. However, I missed out on having a walk down due to resting my ankle.

I would easily choose to stay at Cuillich B&B again, thanks to the hosts’ hospitality, the cleanliness, the warmth of the place and the temporary companionship of two gorgeous dogs.

I have provided an interactive map below where you can explore the area and book onto the Shepherd’s Hut at Cuillich B&B.

Alternatively, if you would like to stay in the B&B, click here to book.

Watch the Leah’s Big (Walk) Ankle Episode on Youtube

If you would like to watch the days unfold up to the stay at Cuillich B&B you can watch the Youtube episode below.

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