Why Thurso Should Be Your Base for Exploring Scotland’s Far North

Why Thurso Should Be Your Base for Exploring Scotland’s Far North

This post contains affiliate links. That means if you click through and make a purchase or booking, I may earn a small commission, at absolutely no extra cost to you. It’s a simple way to support my blog and the free content I create. Thank you.

Stopping off at Thurso first…

June 2024 was the start of my long walk from John O’Groats to Lands End.

During my planning stage instead of starting the journey at John O’Groats, something was calling out to me to start the journey in Thurso.

So, I made Thurso my arrival point.

I expected Thurso to be my launchpad to my walk to first visit Dunnet Head but it wasn’t until I got speaking to other visitors why Thurso is a great place to start at for other adventures.

Why visit Thurso?

Thurso is the perfect base for exploring the far north of Scotland, whether you’re walking along its dramatic coastal landscapes, taking the ferry to the Orkney Islands, or making the short trip to Dunnet Head.

It’s also a surfing hotspot, with powerful waves that draw surfers from all over the world.

The surrounding area is steeped in both Norse and Scottish heritage, making Thurso an unmissable stop for visitors with a passion for history.

You can watch the journey of arriving in Thurso, visiting Dunnet Head and then walking to John O’Groats in the Youtube video below.

How do you get to Thurso?

Getting to Thurso is an adventure itself!

I travelled to Thurso by train, starting in Glasgow and changing at Inverness. The whole journey took just over nine hours, most of which I happily spent gazing out of the window at the ever-changing Scottish landscapes.

By Train: Trains run from Inverness to Thurso (around 4 hours 15 minutes), with stops in Wick, Helmsdale, and other Highland towns.

By Car: From Inverness, it’s about 110 miles (177 km) to Thurso along the A9 and A836.

If you’re driving from John o’ Groats, it’s roughly 20 miles (30 minutes).

Where to stay in Thurso…

I stayed at Thurso Bay Camping, a beautiful site perched right on the cliff edge, overlooking the Pentland Firth and the distant Orkney Islands.

Being right on the coast does mean it can get pretty windy at times, so pack accordingly if you’re planning a stay.

The facilities here are everything a camper needs. There’s a block with:

• Free hot showers
• A Laundry room
• A dishwashing area

If you don’t fancy cooking, you’re in luck. The on-site restaurant is open Friday to Sunday, perfect for enjoying a meal with those spectacular sea views.

Looking for somewhere to stay in Thurso? Use this map to find local places, from budget B&Bs to cosy guesthouses.

Things to See and Do Near Thurso

While at the campsite, I ended up chatting to a lovely woman in the toilets. She and her friends were heading to the Orkney Islands, but first, they planned to visit Dunnet Head for some birdwatching.

I couldn’t help but think how completely mad I was for planning to walk from Thurso to John o’ Groats and add in Dunnet Head! That would have been at least 25 miles!

I was even considering asking the campsite about transport to Dunnet Head and then walking from there.

Luckily, she offered me a lift, and I was so grateful. That steep climb up to the head would have been a challenge, and I was more than happy to skip it.

Why didn’t I just skip Dunnet Head? Well, I was probably after those bragging rights. A lot of people think John o’ Groats is the northernmost point of mainland Britain, but the title actually goes to Dunnet Head.

It’s home to the Dunnet Head Lighthouse, dramatic sea cliffs, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot some puffins!

Surf’s Up!

Learn to surf among what many say are the best waves in the UK, right here on the North Coast of Scotland at Dunnet Beach. If you’ve never tried it before, why not take a beginner surf lesson and get started safely.

Can you get to Orkney Islands from Thurso?

Absolutely!

The ferry to Orkney departs from Scrabster Ferry Terminal, which is just a couple of miles from Thurso town centre.

You can walk it in around 35–40 minutes, but if you’ve got luggage (or just want to save your legs for exploring Orkney), you might prefer to hop on a local bus or grab a taxi, both will get you there in under 10 minutes.

Once at Scrabster, you can board the NorthLink Ferry to Stromness in Orkney. The crossing takes about 90 minutes, and on a clear day, you’ll get incredible views of the cliffs of Hoy as you approach the islands.

Alternatively, you can have someone take care of you all day from the terminal on a guided day trip. A local guide will take you to see the Ring of Brodgar, the Standing Stones of Stenness, and the incredible Skara Brae.

The tour lasts around 5.5 hours, and they’re popular! So it’s worth booking in advance to avoid missing out.

How far is John O’Groats from Thurso?

To walk from Thurso to John O’Groats it is 20 miles, which can take over 7 hours to walk but that is without a break!

Therefore I broke the day up by starting my walk from Dunnet Head.

Can you walk from Dunnet Head to John O’Groats?

Yes, you can!

Walking Dunnet Head to John O’Groats was what I consider my pre-walk day – I was warming up!

I use Hiiker to navigate all my walking routes, making it easy to track my path and stay on course. If you want to try it, you can get 50% off with my code LEAH50!

From the bottom of the road, the B855, it takes just over 12 miles to walk to the outskirts of John O’Groats.

It is mainly road walking and good news – it is mainly flat! My experience was that I barely saw any traffic but please do continue to walk with caution and stick to highway code.

From the sign directing to John O’Groats, follow the road and you’ll arrive near Ham Harbour, where you’ll also find the Ham Girnal and Corn Mill.

A girnal is a grain store, and this one dates back to the early to mid-18th century. In the mid-19th century, it was converted into a water-powered corn mill, serving the local community.

The mill ceased operation after 1900. Today, it no longer has its original flooring, machinery, or water wheel.

It’s now a listed building, standing as a reminder of a time when Caithness, Scotland, relied heavily on the corn trade.

The walk continues past the Castle of Mey, once the Queen Mother’s residence.

Before arriving into John O’Groats you will walk past the welcome sign.

That night I stayed in the John O’Groats Guest House and received a very warm welcome after my tiring day! However, the walk was well worth it because of the views I did not expect to see on the beginning of ‘Leah’s Big Walk’.

If you’re planning your own adventure to John o’ Groats, securing the right place to stay can make all the difference.

Whether you want a cosy B&B, a self-catering cottage with sea views, or a hotel just steps from the iconic signpost, you’ll find plenty of options to suit your trip.

Use the interactive map below to compare prices and book accommodation easily. It’s powered by my trusted partner Stay22, so you’ll get the best available rates while also supporting my work at no extra cost to you.

If you found the blog content enjoyable and valuable, consider supporting my work with a coffee.

Your generosity helps me continue creating insightful and engaging content for you to enjoy.

Thank you for being a part of my community!

If you would like to watch the full journey, subscribe on Youtube!